How to pick up the right shirt for you
FIRST STEP: PICK A CUT FOR YOUR SHIRT
There are three major types of cuts for shirts:
Slim fit: mimics a V body type by visually broadening the shoulders and slimming the torso. Avoid this type of cut if you have a bit of extra fat around your stomach, as it will make them much more prominent
Tips: if you go for this type of cut, make sure it’s not too tight. Nothing more
ridiculous that a man whose buttons appears on the verge of exploding.
Regular fit: this is cut we think you should go for. It suits a great number of body types, is more comfortable than a slim fit and more elegant than a straight fit. The shoulders are highlighted and there is enough fabric on the ribs to not strain movements.
Straight/Relaxed fit: very popular in the 80’s and 90’s, today it’s considered too flowy around the torso and far from elegant. It’s best suited for streetwear or vintage looks.
STEP 2: PICK A COLLAR FOR YOUR SHIRT
For a corporate environment, go with the Italian collar: it’s broad and would work perfectly with a broad tie as well.
To wear with a suit, go with the French collar: with its 90° opening, it’s the most polyvalent.
For a more casual occasion, go with the American collar: it buttons up so you can wear it without a tie. Do not wear this type of collar in an office setting.
You also want to focus on your neck size and height to select the appropriate collar. If your neck is very long you don’t want a short collar and vice versa if your neck is very short.
Same with your neck’s width, be sure that your collar is not too large or to thin.
STEP 3: CHOSE THE FABRIC OF YOUR SHIRT
For formal wear:
Poplin, the most formal: silky and shiny
Twill, the most classic: smooth and thick
For casual wear:
Oxford, for an all-season shirt: grained fabric with pretty vented weaving
Chambray, for a pop of color: specific weaving of colored thread and white thread
Flannel, for warmth and comfort: grated fabric with a specific fuzzy appearance
You also want to choose the fabric depending on the weather to regulate your perspiration.
FINAL STEP: MAKE SURE YOUR SHIRT IS THE RIGHT FIT
Make sure the stiches fall right on the top of your shoulders. There should be just enough room between your collar and your neck to fit one finger.
There should be no tension on your torso, the fabric should not feel tight.
Not too much excess fabric on the armpits or in the back.
The sleeves stop right at your ulna.
Clara Peter & Maud Vanhoutte
+61 (0)2 9569 6906
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